Painted Bottles and Glass
Aromatherapy Eye Pillows
Pipe Curtain Rods
Art Books & Frames
Personalized Calendars, Stories, and Freezer Jam
Fancy-Dressed Soaps

by Louisa Brinsmade

Project: Pipe Curtain Rods

Supplies: length of steel pipe, 2 steel elbows of the same diameter, 2 short steel extenders, 2 floor flanges, and large head wood screws

Time: Around an hour for shopping & waiting for the cutting and threading and 15 minutes for assembly and installation!

Cost: About $10 per rod, less if you have several cut from one long length of pipe.

*Tips
It's better to use tie-on curtains so you can remove them easily for cleaning, etc… That is, until I come up with an easy-to-remove pipe rod idea. (Anyone?)

Note for plain (untrimmed) windows: This project is for windows with wood trim around the frame. I wouldn't try to hang them on drywall even with the proper anchors. The pipes are too heavy--10-15 pounds once they're assembled, and then even more with drapes hanging from them, depending on the fabric. I've never had luck working with studs on hanging things--but anyone willing to try has got my vote. You can tell from a temper tantrum I had once with a drill and some drywall what an unlucky stud-finder I am.

TESTIFY!
I paid 60-some bucks for a shoddy Crate and Barrel approximation of these rods because I thought it would be too hard to make them myself. I had seen the real pipe rods in other people's houses & they have a tough, industrial look that complements a variety of decors. Thanks to Louisa, I'll be relegating my Crap and Barrel rods to the guest room & making my own. -Nikol

Did you pay $40 - 60 for a single curtain rod? Hmm. No good, girl. DIY curtain rods could cost under $10 apiece or less.

Pipe Rods: You have two choices, really. Steel pipes at your home improvement store are either shiny galvanized steel, or painted black, normally for use as gas lines. I personally like the black ones the best, and go with the matching darker steel attachments. But in my blue room, I went with shiny galvanized steel, as you can see from the photo.

Measure your windows from outside of trim to outside of trim, left to right. You might find in an old house that these measurements are different for each window. Take note that the trim may differ as well. Go to Home Depot, (or any home improvement store, but H.D. is my favorite…) and head for the plumbing dept.

Buy:

• One length of 1/2" or 3/4" steel pipe per window. Subtract four inches from your left to right window measurement and ask the nice pipe-cutter lady to cut your pipe that length and thread both ends. Make sure the threads are smooth.
• Two steel elbows per pipe - 1/2" or 3/4".
• Two short (2-3") steel extenders per pipe. They come threaded on both ends.
• Two steel "floor flanges." I would get the 2" ones for 1/2" pipes, and 3" ones for 3/4" pipe.
• Large head wood screws, about 1 1/2" long.

Assemble:

1. Find your cordless drill and phillips head screw bit. Charge up the battery. Or drag out your electric drill (yawn).

2. Make sure your pipe is the proper length by lifting it up to the top of the trim and giving it the eyeball. I had to go back to the store twice because it was too long, or wasn't cut right. So make sure the threads are smooth as well.

3.

4. Attach the elbows to the ends of the pipe, and the extenders to the elbows, which you'll see give it space from the wall. Don't screw anything on too tight. Some adjustment to make each side match will be necessary.

5. Screw on the flanges to the open end of the extenders. Test the squareness by setting the flanges flat on the floor.

6. Go get your girlfriend, neighbor, little sister, brother. Make them hold up one side while you screw in the flange to the top corner of the window trim. Then screw in the other side.

7. Admire your work.